Understanding the four control layers of window installation
Part one: Water control
In this series, we’re explaining how to install a window so it connects with all four control layers. Get detailed tips and best practices for installing a window to connect with the water layer here and then learn about air, thermal, and vapor.
Windows and doors require large holes in our environmental separator — aka the exterior walls of our buildings. Those exterior walls rely on four critical control layers: water, air, thermal, and vapor. A window or door itself provides the function of all four control layers, but it’s the installer’s job to make sure the unit connects to each of the control layers of the wall. Continuity of these control layers is what keeps the building durable. With this first blog in our series about the four control layers, we’ll look at how we can make the water control layer continuous between the wall and window.
What is a water-resistive barrier (WRB)?
A water-resistive barrier (WRB) — sometimes called housewrap — is the layer in the wall assembly that sheds liquid water, primarily rain, when it gets behind the cladding. You can think of it as the wall’s drainage plane. Its job is simple: to keep bulk water away from the sheathing and framing, and out of the wall.
WRBs aren’t installed to stop vapor, though some products allow vapor diffusion, and they aren’t necessarily an air barrier, though some can serve that function too. A WRB is there to keep liquid water from contacting the moisture sensitive materials the wall is built of.
The 4 types of WRBs
1. Mechanically attached membranes
This is the most common type of WRB. This includes asphalt-impregnated felt (tarpaper) and modern plastic house wraps. A mechanically attached membrane is typically vapor-open while still keeping bulk water out. These types of products are fastened with cap nails or staples. They’re usually inexpensive and easy to install but can be damaged by wind or by surfactants (soaps, detergents, certain wood extracts) that reduce surface tension and compromise water repellency.
2. Self-adhered membranes
This type of WRB is essentially a large sheet of tape. A self-adhered membrane bonds directly to the sheathing, making them resistant to wind damage and improving air-sealing potential.
3. Fully- or factory-adhered systems
This is a sheathing panel with the WRB bonded to it at the factory. ZIP System is an example of this type of combined sheathing and WRB product. This type of system creates a simple, high-performance WRB with consistent installation results.
4. Fluid-applied WRBs
This is a liquid membrane that’s rolled, brushed, or sprayed onto the sheathing. A fluid-applied WRB conforms to irregular surfaces and produces a fully adhered, continuous barrier when installed correctly.
2 approaches to water management around windows
The drainage method
The thought behind the drainage method is that some moisture will, at some point, find its way into the window assembly. Either water will enter through the window itself, or between the window and rough opening. In that thinking, we protect both the window rough opening so that a wetting event does not affect the structures framing. We also provide a pathway for the water to escape, out the bottom or sill of the rough opening.
This method accepts reality. Windows and wall systems occasionally get wet. Our job is to manage that water, not pretend it will never appear.
The barrier method
The second window water management method is called the barrier method and is less common in residential construction. With the barrier method, the intent is to keep all water from ever entering the installation assembly. For this to work, the window needs to be meticulously sealed to the WRB, and that seal requires periodic maintenance. The homeowner would need to be trained in how to inspect and repair the system.
This method demands a lot from homeowners. This is why it’s more common in commercial construction, where inspection and maintenance cycles are more common.
Overview of installing a flanged window using the drainage method
Here’s a simplified sequence for connecting the window to a mechanically attached WRB:
1. Cut and prepare the WRB
Cut the WRB at the opening. At the head, cut a flap and tape it out of the way. This creates the space you’ll later fold down for shingled drainage.
2. Install the sill pan flashing
Install a sill pan (tape, metal, or formed product) on the rough sill and lap it over the WRB. This forces any water that enters the system to the face of the WRB, not between the wall sheathing and WRB.
3. Apply sealant to the flange
Apply sealant to the sides and top edge of the window rough opening, where the window will fasten to the wall sheathing. Do not seal the bottom flange, leaving that bottom unsealed allows water to escape.
4. Set and fasten the window
Place the window in the opening and fasten it according to Andersen’s instructions.
5. Flash the flanges
Apply flashing tape over the side flanges, connecting the window flange to the WRB.
Install a bead of sealant to the top nailing flange, then attach the head flashing/drip cap to the top of the window. Finish by then taping across the top, sealing the head flashing to the wall sheathing.
6. Fold the WRB head flap down
Fold the WRB flap back into place and skip-tape it. This allows drainage behind the WRB if water ever gets between the sheathing and the house wrap.
Please visit www.andersenwindows.com/installation for full installation instructions and other installation details.
Pulling it together
This is the basic method for making the window and WRB work together as one continuous water-management system. The goal isn’t just to keep water out — it’s to make sure that if water does get in, it has a controlled path back out.
More complex assemblies — like walls with continuous exterior insulation, integrated WRB sheathing, or fluid-applied membranes — require slightly different detailing. Luckily, there are excellent resources and installation guides available to help build a resilient, durable connection between the window and the wall.
Two rules remain true no matter which type of WRB you use: 1) The layers must be continuous. 2) It’s not just about keeping water out. It’s also about giving water a way out should it ever get in.
Meet Randy Williams
Randy Williams started his construction career in the mid-1990s installing electrical, plumbing, and HVAC systems with his brother. In the early 2000s, his family branched into building and renovating homes. By 2005, Randy was working full time as a general contractor. He furthered his education in 2009 becoming an energy auditor. Today, Randy works with other contractors, homeowners, and utilities performing energy audits, building diagnostics, energy design, and code compliant testing, and assisting in the design of energy-efficient homes. He is also a contributing author to several trade publications and occasionally teaches home diagnostic testing and building science topics at different trade shows and training events.

Coming soon: Learn about the other control layers
(Opens in a new tab)Installing windows for air control
Get tips on how to connect the air control layer to your window for a proper installation or to put it more simply, how to make sure your installation keeps the inside in. Here to explain the details is seasoned contractor and energy efficiency consultant Randy Williams.
(Opens in a new tab)Installing a window for thermal control
Connecting the thermal control layer to your window is fundamental to proper installation. Get tips on doing it right from a seasoned contractor.
(Opens in a new tab)Installing a window for vapor control
Though often overlooked, a vapor control strategy is fundamental to a properly constructed building. Find out how this applies to windows.